Saturday, 27 February 2010

Fabric and colour board

Fabric and colour board....

Wednesday, 24 February 2010

Roland Mouret Ready-To-Wear - Catwalk report - Paris Autumn/Winter 2009-10 (Vogue.com UK)




Roland Mouret Ready-To-Wear - Catwalk report - Paris Autumn/Winter 2009-10 (Vogue.com UK)

http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/show.aspx/catwalk-report/id,7673

I have been looking through Roland Mouret' s past collections to look in to his use of collars and cuffs. I have pulled out pictures of these and put them on two boards to help me. He doesnt often use collars in his designs, but I can see he uses the silhouette of collars to try create the illusion of a collared jacket or coat, this creates a femenine look by shaping or draping around the kneck then having, triple, detailed or draped lapels to create a focul point.
I can see that Roland doesn't particulary use cuffs on his design, I think this is because he likes his designs to be as femeine as possible and the use of a cuff would defeat this look, so he finishes his garments with a plain, but simple turn up with no stitching details seen. Sometimes on his blouses/shirts he has rolled up the sleeves, this also creates a simple femenine look.
However, some collars that have appeared in his work are either very simple and small, or some begin thin at one side of the kneck then gradually become very wide and drape over the kneck and shoulders at the other side. Some of his knecklines are draped and using pintucks has tacked the fabric in a simple look, this creates delicousy and again simplicity, yet precisely shaped and styled.


Quote "I aim to make clothes that look effortless-thats my signature".

Fashion Now Book, Taschen, 2005

RM by Roland Mouret Ready-To-Wear - Catwalk report - Paris Spring/Summer 2010 (Vogue.com UK)

RM by Roland Mouret Ready-To-Wear - Catwalk report - Paris Spring/Summer 2010 (Vogue.com UK)

Monday, 15 February 2010

15 Feb

Natural and man-made fabrics...




Fabric Basics...


Most garments are made from woven, unwoven or knitted fabrics,
-These fabrics are made by spun or filament yarns
-These yarns are made up of Fibres which can be categorised into one of four groups...

So what is a fibre?
-A slender and elongated substance which can be spun into yarn.

Staple fibre-these are short fibres (natural) which can be spun and twisted in to yarn.







Filament fibre- these are continuous length natural fibres which their continuous filaments are up to 1 kilometre in length, generally man-made apart from silk.





Fabric Research...

Today I went to Harrods to look at the RM collection and to find out a bit about the fabrics that are used, many were made from Acetate and Elastane but the jacket below was made from a combonation of...



Acetate, Viscose, Elastane, cotton and silk (lining).



the defenitions are as follows...





Viscose is a unique form of wood cellulose acetate that can be used for the manufacture of a number of different types of products that are used in the medical industry, when the cellulose is treated with caustic soda. Sometimes referred to as cellulose xanthe in this state, viscose is ideal for the creation of dialysis membrane and other medical tools that must be soft and supple to the touch.
Science bit...Viscose is a viscous organic liquid used to make rayon and cellophane. Cellulose from wood or cotton fibres is treated with sodium hydroxide, then mixed with carbon disulfide to form cellulose xanthate, which is dissolved in more sodium hydroxide. The resulting viscose is extruded into an acid bath either through a slit to make cellophane, or through a spinneret to make rayon. The acid converts the viscose back into cellulose.
= viscose fabric.

Acetate is a synthetic or manufactured fiber with a silky luxurious appearance. It dries easily and resists absorbing moisture. Most acetate fabrics will need to be dry cleaned for their care. Some newer pieces of clothing are being made with acetate knits. Some of these newer pieces are able to be washed. Acetate is a frequently used fabric in clothing and home furnishing uses.

Elastane fibres, better known under their trade names, Lycra and Dorlastan, represent a further high point in the development of man-made fibres. Invented in 1937 in Germany, elastane has properties not found in nature, the most important being an extraordinary elasticity.Compared to rubber, elastane has both greater tear resistance and durability and a tension capacity two or three times greater, at a third of the weight. Elastane is used in all areas where a high degree of permanent elasticity is required, as, for example, in tights, sportswear, swimwear, corsetry, and in woven and knitted fabrics. When stretched, it always reverts to its original form. Elastane also is a prerequisite for fashionable or functional apparel which is intended to cling to the body, while at the same time remaining comfortable.

14 Feb Inspiration sheets...

Inspiration sheets...
I have created, manipulated etc...







Page 2...







14 Feb Moodboard

New Moodboard and inspiration...



'All Dolled UP'...

My new theme was developed by spotting a picture on the front of a magazine on my way food shopping, it had fallen out of a newspaper which I then searched to find and purchased.

I then began to collect other inspiration and pictures around the subject and thought of the title...'All Dolled Up'...

The theme is a combination of Fairytale, out of this world architecture and colour.

My moodboard...


12 Feb

During todays lesson we were introduced to the brief and shown a presentation by the tutor on the basics of fabric.


We were split in to small groups to build a studio space and share our research to bounce ideas off each other this was very good as everyone helped each other out and gave good feedback.



This was my research (moodboard)

However I soon discovered after speaking with my tutor that I was going in the wrong direction and so I have decided to start a new theme and collect new inspiration.

This is a picture of my reaserch (moodboard)...

5 Feb

Selfridges...
Here I looked at Rolland Mouret's collection pieces having a small area in Selfridges to view. I looked at how the garments were made, what fabrics were used and how they hung on the hanger...Mouret drapes a lot of his garments giving it movement and femeninity.

10 Feb

Today included...

After researching my designer Roland Mouret I have started to think of colour combinations, I began fabric shopping in London Soho to find appropriate fabric samples to fit with my theme and designer (RM) collections.

National Gallery...I had a look around the National Gallery, purely to see what was there and to pick up or see any insperation. I came across a photographer who's work looked very emotional, which fit perfectly with my theme (Emotions).

Westminster Library...I registered with this library as they do have a lot of fashion and art and design books. Im finding it hard to find information on Rolland Mouret so I decided to look through past Vogue magazines (2002-2005) to find any pictures or articles on Rolland, this wasn't successfull however I did find a little information eventually in a book.

Thursday, 11 February 2010

RM by the designer Roland Mouret : home

RM by the designer Roland Mouret : home

Official RM Roland Mouret Website...See him work on the stand, draping fabric to create a dress....

Saturday, 6 February 2010

'I can't regret anything' - Telegraph

'I can't regret anything' - Telegraph

Roland talks about signing his name away and quiting due to general disagreements.....

Wednesday, 3 February 2010

Colour ideas






"Here is a few colour ideas I love..."

YouTube - RM by Roland Mouret | Fall Winter Runway Show 2009 | NET-A-PORTER.COM

YouTube - RM by Roland Mouret Fall Winter Runway Show 2009 NET-A-PORTER.COM

Roland Mouret-How this collections flatters the women's figure
and what to wear with...

YouTube - Paris : RM by Roland Mouret fashion show: Women's Ready to Wear Summer 2010

YouTube - Paris : RM by Roland Mouret fashion show: Women's Ready to Wear Summer 2010

Galaxy Dress


Christmas Helper
Lauren Milligan
30 November 09


ROLAND MOURET'S Galaxy dress became a byword for perfectly shaped femininity when it hit the market in 2005, and since then high street brands and fellow designers alike have striven to give their dresses the same invisibly supportive base. Now, thanks to Browns and Mouret himself, every dress in your wardrobe can have the same impact.


The new
Roland Mouret power mesh dress is due to arrive in Browns in time for Christmas and enables the wearer to get the Mouret shape under her favourite dresses.

"The new power mesh slip dress from Roland Mouret is the ultimate spring underpinning," Browns' buying director
Erin Mullaney told VOGUE.COM. "Not only can it be worn under a fabulous black dress to hold you in but it's the perfect solution to all the new sheer slip dresses and lingerie-inspired lacy numbers that will be popular again this summer. I will be wearing mine under almost everything as it's so difficult to find a comfortable and sexy slip dress that also gives you shape!"
The slip is available in one colour, powder, and will retail for £270.

Roland Mouret for Net A Porter-Rainbow Project

Roland has worked with Natalie Massenet's Net-A-Porter.com to create a limited edition collection. Collection called- RM Roland Mouret Rainbow Project- consists of dresses in rainbow colours.

"I wanted to do something really fresh with bright colors for cruise," Mouret told WWD. "This collection is for young girls. It's easy to wear and to take from daytime into cocktail hour."






























RM by Roland Mouret- Spring/Summer 2010-ready to wear






















Roland challenged himself to " look at the clothes themselves, the women I dress and the way we view the collection quite literally from every angle- a multi-faceted approach," leading on to his impecable, femenine collection...

Detailed cuts, cleverly concieved shapes from the blonde silk trouser suit with softly pointed hips and exagerated hips, pale blue silk dungarees featuring one shoulder strap and one full shoulder...
Waffled grey silk shirt dresses were gathered vertically up the centre to give extra shape to the hips, while tapered trousers had horizontal slit pockets to extend the silhouette. One-shouldered navy jumpsuits and tapered trousers or dresses had cleverly fanned uppers and geometric structure over the hips, while ribbon-waisted red dresses and black ones with blonde fur shoulders were worn with heavy bronze necklaces, sea anemone bracelets or black mesh Louboutin heels. It was luxurious sophistication – perfect for women with a combination of Fuller’s money and Mouret's taste.


Roland Mouret- French designer...

born in 1962 in Lourdes, France.

Tuesday, 2 February 2010

Roland Mouret's 'Moon Dress' Storm...







“Roland Mouret, creator of the
world famous Galaxy dress,
knows how to make women - all women - look amazing”.

Polly Vernon
The Observer, Sunday 2 August 2009
Article history



Victoria Beckham
Roland created a storm around his now legendary moon dress made famous by Victoria Beckham. Such is the popularity of the design that the first batch at Harvey Nichols in London sold out within days. In March 2008 it was announced that Roland would start working with Victoria Beckham on a limited edition capsule collection of little black dresses.

Telegraph.co.uk

Hunting Roland Mouret's Moon dress

By Laura Clout Published: 12:01AM GMT 27 Nov 2007

Harvey Nichols has a waiting list for the dress made popular by Victoria Beckham
Laura Clout reveals where to find an hourglass silhouette
The designer Roland Mouret is creating a frenzy on high streets with his skintight Moon dress.

Victoria Beckham wore a fuschia pink model earlier this year. Now every fashion-conscious woman wants at least one in her wardrobe.
Made of stretch cotton, with folded epaulette sleeves, the £990 shift dress promises to create an hourglass silhouette reminiscent of 1940s Hollywood stars.
Such is the popularity of the design that the first batch at Harvey Nichols in London sold out within days. The store has a waiting list of 22.
Now other stores are following the trend. TopShop sold more than 5,000 of its £60 homage to the dress and Tesco's Mouret-inspired creation is on sale for £25.